Please, always take the time to acclimate new corals.  It is also recommended to dip new corals prior to introduction into your aquarium.

Step 1: Float the bag with the coral in the aquarium water (away from lights!) for about 20 minutes.

Step 2:  Open the bag and test the salinity of the bag water. 

Step 3: Pour out some water leaving just enough to keep the coral submerged under water.  Add about 1/3 to 1/2 cup of tank water to the bag every 10-20 minutes until the bag water and tank water are approximately the same salinity.  You can add less water over longer periods of time to acclimate more slowly for more sensitive corals (or when the bag water and tank water have substantially different salinity).

Step 4: Dip your coral in a coral dip solution - simple process is a commonly looked over step in the acclimation process that often leads to huge problems down the road.  Follow directions on the product you intend to use and as some corals are more sensitive to this procedure then others do a quick search online for any specific warnings or tips.

Acclimation can also be done in a bucket or container (rather than the transport bag).  However, the water temperature can get closer to room temperature than tank water temperature.  Insulating the bucket in a styrofoam box or cooler during acclimation should help.   Additionally you may add a heater to the bucket or container.

To acclimate to new lighting conditions, first place the coral in a less light intense area of the tank.  Every few days, move the coral towards more direct lighting until it is where you want it to be.  If it begins to bleach at any point, move it back to a less light intense area.  After the coral recovers, commence moving towards more direct light more slowly.  Alternatively many lights have the ability to be dimmed or programmed to a coral acclimation setting which will achieve the same results.

Particular attention needs to be paid toward coral aggression when considering new coral purchases as well as placement.  When certain corals are placed in close proximity or as they increase in size naturally their aggressive nature manifests itself and can be problematic.   Corals have specialized mechanisms developed for protection and competition which include sweeper tentacles, mesenterial filaments and terpenoid compounds.

Sweeper Tentacles:

This is the most common defense mechanism found in the hard corals but also occur in some soft corals.  These tentacles are not the same as normal coral polyp often being many times longer and containing specialized stinging cells.  The effect of an attack on competing corals is that they can burn it to the point of severely damaging or even killing it.

Mesenterial Filaments:

These filaments produced by certain corals in their stomach can attack others in a way similar to digestion.  Corals of the genera Favia, Favites, Scolymia, Pavona and Cynarina all have this ability.

Terpenoid Compounds:

This is the method of battle employed by soft corals whereby releasing compounds into the water to impede the growth of neighboring corals.  By taking over additional space and growing above other corals they may result in blocking out the light and thus killing underlying coral.

Plan ahead when putting corals into your reef environment to avoid overcrowding and or aggression.  This should include providing adequate spacing and reducing tip over potential.  Make sure coral is securely attached before it has a chance to fully encrust is important.  Also care should be taken when removing or relocating corals.  This will reduce the likelihood that one coral will come into contact with another causing burning that can cause injury and become infected or potentially kill the colony.  Pruning or fragging over time may be necessary to keep proper spacing and avoid coral wars from erupting.

LPS:

It is recommended to provide a 4-6 inch zone in all directions.

SPS:

2-3 inches is generally enough however since SPS are fast growing extra space should be allotted for this.

Polyps & Soft Coral:

For the most part soft corals do not burn one another as bad as hard corals however there are a few considerations to take note of.  Faster growing corals will overgrow and may starve out slower growing corals.  Water flow is important so that their terpenoids do not linger and can be removed through filtration mechanisms.

Origin

Care Level: Difficult

Placement: Middle to Top

Lighting: Moderate to High

Flow: Medium to Strong

Conditions: 74°-80°, s.g. 1.023-1.026, pH 8.1-8.4, Cal 400-450, dKH 8-12, Mag 1350-1500, Sr 10

Conditions & Placement

Requiring strong light and sufficient water movement Acros are among the more difficult corals to keep requiring stable tank conditions. They are sensitive to sudden changes such as temperature, chemical and other environmental stresses which could result in death. Careful acclimation to their new environment in the home aquarium is very important. Once placed in their permanent position it can take up to 6 months to regain their normal growth rates. Moving them around will cause stress and may lead to death.

Feeding

Acros receive the majority of their nutrition through their symbiotic relationship with zooxanthellae fueled from the light. Feed zooplankton once a week can also be beneficial. Acros do best in aquariums with dissolved solid organic matter and may starve in less than optimal conditions. Signs of starvation would show as lack of new growth and or tissue recession.

Maintenance

Acros do best in clean and constant water conditions. Bi-weekly water changes of at least 10% are important for keeping water condition stable. Keep an eye on nitrate levels which need to be low. Check your Cal,Alk and Mag levels and strontium should be added to the water.

Warnings

Acros do best with other SPS. Some LPS corals can cause harm or death when coming into contact with Acros. Leather corals should be avoided as they release terpins that will eventually kill Acros. Caution needs to be taken with crabs as with the exception of a few might prey on Acros. Chocolate sea stars will eat Acros.

Signs of Problems

• - Bleaching

• - Receding

• - RTD

• - RTN

• - Flatworms

Common Names

Carnation Coral, Kenya Tree Coral, Tree Coral

Description

With the exception of carnation coral Nephtheidae corals are very easy to care for being almost bullet proof. They grow very quickly and can spread just as fast. The colors of Nephtheidae corals are pretty basic. They tend to come from a more nutrient rich environment so prefer a not so clean system.

Care Level: Easy to Difficult

Placement: Bottom

Lighting: Moderate

Flow: Moderate

Conditions: 68°-83°, s.g. 1.023-1.025, Phosphates 0, Cal 400-450, dKH 8-11, Mag 1200-1350, Sr 8-10

Conditions & Placement

Nephtheidae do not need strong lighting but do need good turbulent water.

Feeding

While Nephtheidae do have a symbiotic relationship with the algae zooxanthellae that lives in their tissue for photosynthesis they rely a good part on outside food for survival. They will feed on dissolved organic matter in the water column and prefer more nutrient rich environments. The carnation coral in particular requires almost exclusively frequent direct feedings. They can be fed microplankton such as marine snow, phytoplankton or similar foods.

Maintenance

Stable tank conditions are needed to keep Nephtheidae. Water changes of 20% a month or bi-weekly water changes of at least 10% are suggested. Nephtheidae does better with trace elements being added especially iodine and strontium.

Warnings

Do not expose Nephtheidae corals to fresh water when topping of your aquarium this can stress the coral and may eventually kill it.

Signs of Problems

Common Names

Clove Polyps, Fern Polyps, Glove Polyps, Palm Tree Polyps, Waving Hand Polyps

Description

The tentacles of Clavulariidae resemble palm fronds hence the common names associated.  Clavulariidae form encrusting mats on the rocks or substrate.  With the variety of colors and textures found in the genus these corals make a beautiful addition to any reef aquarium.  Clavulariidae corals are very easy to care for and recommended for beginners.  They also help reduce organics in the water which can help improve water quality.

Care Level: Easy

Placement: All

Lighting: Moderate to High

Flow: Moderate to Strong

Conditions: 72°-81°, s.g. 1.023-1.025, Phosphates 0, Cal 400-450, dKH 8-11, Mag 1200-1350, Sr 8-10

Conditions & Placement

While Clavulariidae are very easy to care for water flow should be strong and turbulent.  Most reef lighting is acceptable.

Feeding

Clavulariidaeget most of their energy through their symbiotic relationship with the algae zooxanthellae that lives in their tissue.  However they also feed on dissolved organic matter.  They do not need to be fed directly.

Maintenance

Stable tank conditions are needed to keep Clavulariidae.  Water changes of 20% a month or bi-weekly water changes of at least 10% are suggested. Clavulariidae may react poorly to the use of some phosphate removing media.

Warnings

Hair algae can overgrow and smother Clavulariidae corals.  These corals will grow very quickly and can easily take over.  It is advisable to place them on an isolated ‘island’ rock to prevent this.Clavulariidae may react poorly to the use of some phosphate removing media.  Also this coral can irritate zoanthids so should be kept separate.

Signs of Problems

Common Names

Discosoma, Rhodactis, Ricordea, Yuma

Description

Most in this family are hardy and adapt easily to a variety and changing conditions and make them well suited for reef aquarium environments.

Care Level: Easy to Moderate

Placement: Bottom to Middle

Lighting: Moderate

Flow: Medium to Strong

Conditions: 74°-80°, s.g. 1.023-1.026, pH 8.1-8.4, Cal 400-450, dKH 8-12, Mag 1350-1500, Sr 10

Conditions & Placement

Being an anemone species with a foot that attaches to the substrate they require live rock or crushed coral. Generally speaking corallimorphs tolerate most lighting conditions however cannot handle high water flow. So placing towards bottom to middle of the reef aquarium is advised.

Feeding

Corallimorphs can absorb food particles from the water column through a large mucus coated outer disc or direct food towards a mouth located in the center of this disc. While not necessary target feeding can be used to promote color and growth if desired. Some food items to try include newly hatched artemia, newly hatched brine shrimp and cyclo-peeze.

Maintenance

Corallimorphs easily adapt to a variety of conditions. When introducing new specimens to the aquarium you can float and salinity match first. Bi-weekly water changes of at least 10% or 20% per month are recommended. It is a good idea to run carbon.

Warnings

Corallimorphs often multiply at a rapid rate once settled into the aquarium environment. While this may seem desirable it can become a nuisance later on. It is suggested for species such as rhodactis and discosoma to leave on isolated ‘islands’. A few larger species actually have the ability to capture small prey such as fish and invertebrates so care should be taken.

Signs of Problems

Common Names

Black Sun Coral, Cup Coral, Orange Sun Coral, Scroll Coral, Turban Coral, Yellow Cup Coral

Description

Dendrophylliidae extend their polyps mostly during the evening.  While they are usually closed up during the day they may extend their polyps when food is present.  Dendrophylliidae are slow growers and will often grow on one another forming community colonies.

Care Level: Easy to Moderate

Placement: All

Lighting: Any

Flow: Strong

Conditions: 74°-83°, s.g. 1.023-1.025, Phosphates 0, Cal 380-430, dKH 8-12, Mag 1200-1350, Sr 8-10

Conditions & Placement

Dendrophylliidae do best in shaded parts of the aquarium.  They are often placed under ledges or in caves to help promote polyp extension during viewing hours.    However it is important that these areas have good flow.

Feeding

Lighting has no affect on the growth of Dendrophylliidae as they are non-photosynthetic.  They exclusively eat small foods such as plankton from the water column.  They can also be fed small sized foods such as brine shrimp or mysis.Dendrophylliidae do best with daily feedings and will appear bloated when well fed.

Maintenance

Monthly water changes of 20% or bi-weekly water changes of at least 10% are suggested. As a result of their feeding requirements good filtration is necessary to keep Dendrophylliidae.  A strong skimmer is highly recommended

Warnings

While light does not bother Dendrophylliidae it does promote algae growth.  If algae is allowed to grow on Dendrophylliidae it could die.

Signs of Problems

• - Lack of polyp extensions indicate that Dendrophylliidae is starving. You can try to entice it to eat by squirting frozen food juice across the polyps or placing the coral in a container of tank water with high concentration of food

Common Names

Anchor Coral, Bubble Coral, Elegance Coral, Fox Coral, Frogspawn Coral, Grape Coral, Hammer Coral, Pearl Bubble Coral, Pearl Coral, Torch Coral

Origin

Australia, Fiji, Indonesia, Philippines.

Description

Euphyllidae are colorful corals feature flowing tentacles.  Care is easy to moderate and Euphyllidae will be the first to warn you of subpar water conditions.

Care Level: Easy to Moderate

Placement: All

Lighting: Moderate to Strong

Flow: Medium

Conditions: 74°-83°, s.g. 1.023-1.025, Phosphates 0, Cal 400-450, dKH 8-11, Mag 1200-1350, Sr 8-10

Conditions & Placement

For Euphyllidae to thrive sufficient lighting is necessary combined with good water flow.  Some trial and error as to placement may be needed to find the corals sweet spot as evident by full polyp extension.Euphyllidae prefer indirect bright light.  While good flow is crucial too much will cause polyps to not fully extend.

Feeding

When feeding Euphyllidae the tentacles can elongate to trap the food.  The availability of food passing over the coral will contribute to its success.  Feeding Euphyllidae can be greatly beneficial for their well-being and growth.  Foods such as mysis, krill, brine shrimp can be used as supplement feeding to photosynthesis.

Maintenance

Monthly water changes of 20% or bi-weekly water changes of at least 10% are suggested.

Warnings

As Euphyllidae are often collected from parent colonies it is important to check for damage such as soft tissue damage or skeleton stress.

Common Names

Bullseye Coral, Candycan Coral, Favites Coral, Hedgehog Coral, Lesser Knob Coral, Maze Brain Coral, Trumpet Coral

Origin

Australia, Fiji, Maldives.

Description

Faviidae are easy to care for and a good choice for beginners.

Care Level: Easy

Placement: Middle

Lighting: Moderate

Flow: Medium

Conditions: 74°-83°, s.g. 1.023-1.025, Phosphates 0, Cal 400-430, dKH 8-11, Mag 1200-1350, Sr 8-10

Conditions & Placement

Faviidae like medium flow and moderate lighting. They are not very aggressive corals however care needs to be taken regarding placement as their sweeper tentacles pack a powerful sting to other corals.

Feeding

Faviidae get much of their energy through photosynthesis but do have a healthy appetite and can be fed when their tentacles are extended. It is not necessary however as they will feed throughout the day from the water column. It is best to turn off wavemakers during feeding time.

Maintenance

Monthly water changes of 20% or bi-weekly water changes of at least 10% are suggested.

Warnings

Care should be taken to clean detritus from between the branches of Faviidae.

Common Names

Disk Coral, Plate Coral, Slipper Coral, Tongue Coral

Origin

Indonesia, Papua New Guinea, Philippines

Description

Fungiidae come in a way variety of unique and beautiful colors.  They are easy to care for if provided proper lighting and flow.  Fungiidae are solitary corals that use the current to move around.  It is not unheard of for them to move up to a foot per day.  They have the ability to unbury themselves if covered in substrate or right themselves if overturned.

Care Level: Easy

Placement: Bottom

Lighting: Low to Moderate

Flow: Medium

Conditions: 74°-81°, s.g. 1.023-1.026, Phosphates 0, Cal 400-430, dKH 8-11, Mag 1200-1350, Sr 8-10

Conditions & Placement

Fungiidae get much of their energy through photosynthesis but also capture food particles from the water column.  In the home aquarium they should be fed daily and this may increase under lower light conditions.  They will eat small meat particles such as mysis, brine shrimp and other similar foods.

Feeding

Fungiidae have wide slit mouths.  At night they send out feeder tentacles.

Maintenance

Monthly water changes of 20% or bi-weekly water changes of at least 10% are suggested.

Warnings

When disturbed or come into contact with other corals Fungiidae excrete a heavy mucus coating that contains strong toxins that can severely damage other corals.

Common Names

Brittle Coral, Crystal Coral, Durian Coral, Galaxy Coral, Scapel Coral, Star Coral and Starburst Coral

Description

Oculinidae, also known as galaxy, corals are quite attractive and popular.  Their skeletons are rather brittle made of branching tubular coralites.  The out portion is covered in living tissue with beautiful polyps that are mesmerizing in their movement.

Care Level: Easy to Moderate

Placement: Top

Lighting: Moderate to High

Flow: Low to Medium

Conditions: 74°-81°, s.g. 1.023-1.025, Phosphates 0, Cal 400-450, dKH 8-11, Mag 1200-1350, Sr 8-10

Conditions & Placement

Oculinidae corals should be provided with good light and low to moderate water movement.  The skeleton provides its substrate upon which it encrusts and will grow outward from the edges.  Care should be taken as Oculinidae maybe extend very long sweeper tentacles potentially stinging and harming adjacent corals.

Feeding

Oculinidae corals, like many LPS, have many feeding strategies.  While primarily photosynthetic, through their symbiotic relationship with the algae zooxanthellae, they can also absorb dissolved organic matter from the water column.  In the home aquarium they can be supplementally fed zooplankton, brine shrimp and mysis.

Maintenance

Monthly water changes of 20% or bi-weekly water changes of at least 10% are suggested.

Warnings

Due to their delicate skeleton care must be taken in transport and moving specimens.  Additionally their tentacles can sting nearby corals causing harm so care should be taken in regards to placement.

Common Names

Sea Blades, Sea Fans, Sea Rods, Sea Whips

Description

Gorgonians are generally tree shaped but come in a variety of interesting shapes. They anchor themselves to the substrate with the branches extending outward. Not recommended for beginners Gorgonians can thrive and be a very rewarding addition to the aquarium with proper care. It is recommended that Gorgonians be added to a mature tank.

Care Level: Moderate to Difficult

Placement: Bottom to Middle

Lighting: Moderate to High

Flow: Moderate

Conditions: 70°-84°, s.g. 1.023-1.025, Phosphates 0, Cal 400-450, dKH 8-11, Mag 1200-1350, Sr 8-10

Conditions & Placement

Gorgonians most be anchored and require moderate to strong water flow. Either surging or turbulent water movement is best. Gorgonians create a waxy film to help prevent algae growth which must be removed through sufficient water flow.

Feeding

While many are photosynthetic and rely on zooxanthellae for nutrients others are not but most must be fed to survive. For those needing to be fed feedings should be done at least once a week with some requiring more regular feedings of up to several times a day. Food such as detritus, brine shrimp, daphnia, rotifers, cyclopeeze or crushed up flake/pellet food. Marine snow is another good choice for feeding Gorgonians. Sometimes it can help to put a container of the Gorgonian to keep food close while it has time to eat.

Maintenance

Stable tank conditions are needed to keep Gorgonians. Bi-weekly water changes of at least 10% are suggested. Dosing trace elements and iodine may also beneficial.

Warnings

Gorgonians are very peaceful and will get along with one another but can become overgrown by other Gorgonians or harmed by other corals in close proximity. Angelfish will often pick on the polyps of Gorgonians so these fish should be well fed if attempting to house together.

Signs of Problems

• - Excessive algae growth on the Gorgonian

• - Reduced polyp extension

• - Tissue recession

Common Names

Chili Pepper Coral, Colt Coral, Dead Man’s Finger Coral, Encrusting Leather Coral, Finger Leather Coral

Description

While resembling leather corals they are distinct because they are slimy to the touch.  Alcyoniidae makes a great beginner coral.  They will tolerate varying aquarium conditions from cool to warm temperatures and low to bright light.  Alcyoniidae corals grow upright in small colonies.  Growth pattern can be variable but most encrust and lobate but can also have fingers.

Care Level: Easy to Medium

Placement: Bottom

Lighting: Moderate

Flow: Low

Conditions: 78°-84° (40°-59° for cold water specimens), s.g. 1.023-1.025, Phosphates 0, Cal 400-450, dKH 8-11, Mag 1200-1350, Sr 8-10

Conditions & Placement

Alcyoniidae should be placed towards the bottom of the aquarium is calm but not still flow locations.  They don’t require a lot of light but most do rely on photosynthesis for a good portion of their nutrition so should not be shaded.

Feeding

Alcyoniidae have developed several feeding strategies.  Theyget most of their energy through their symbiotic relationship with the algae zooxanthellae that lives in their tissue.  However they also capture microscopic food particles from the water column and absorb dissolved organic matter.  Some of the deep water Alcyoniidae  corals are not photosynthetic and must be fed.  In the reef aquarium they can be fed phytoplankton or zooplankton.

Maintenance

Stable tank conditions are needed to keep Sinularia.  Water changes of 20% a month or bi-weekly water changes of at least 10% are suggested.

Warnings

Some corals in the Alcyoniidae genus are cold water species and will require cooler temperatures than maintained in the typical reef aquarium.  Make sure you research the species before purchasing.

Signs of Problems

Common Names

AcanEchinata, Acan Lord, Blasto Coral, Button Coral, Cat’s Eye Coral, Fancy Doughnut Coral, Lobed Brain Coral, Micromussa Coral, Pineapple Coral, Symphyllia Brain Coral

Description

Mussidaeare not very demanding and are easy to care for.  They are fairly common in nature and readily available in the aquarium trade.  To distinguish between Mussidae it is best to view when the polyps are fully extended.

Care Level: Easy

Placement: Bottom

Lighting: Moderate

Flow: Low

Conditions: 76°-83°, s.g. 1.023-1.025, Phosphates 0, Cal 400-450, dKH 8-11, Mag 1200-1350, Sr 8-10

Conditions & Placement

Mussidae should not be housed with a lot of soft corals as they do not do well together.  Water movement should be low and avoid strong lighting.  Mussidae are aggressive and their sweeper tentacles can disturb or harm nearby corals so leave plenty of room.

Feeding

Mussidae do not need to be fed as they will consume from the water column however to promote growth can be supplemented with target feeding zooplankton or small particle foods.  Mussidae will extend polyp tentacles at night to feed however in the home aquarium this may also be observed during the day or when food is introduced.

Maintenance

Monthly water changes of 20% or bi-weekly water changes of at least 10% are suggested. Mussidae do not do well in pristine water conditions.  Fish are necessary in the aquarium to provide nitrogen needed for them to thrive.  Calcium nitrate is also beneficial (different then plain calcium).

Warnings

Too strong light will cause the polyps of Mussidae to not fully open and may cause bleaching or loss of color.

Description

Montipora is not as demanding as other SPS species. It is a fast grower under the right conditions and is easily fragged

Care Level: Easy to Moderate

Placement: Middle to Top

Lighting: Moderate to High

Flow: Medium to Strong

Conditions: 74°-80°, s.g. 1.023-1.026, pH 8.1-8.4, Cal 400-450, dKH 8-12, Mag 1350-1500, Sr 10

Conditions & Placement:

Montipora is not demanding as far as light and flow are concerned but temperature is important and should not exceed 80.

Feeding

Montis receive the majority of their nutrition through their symbiotic relationship with zooxanthellae fueled from the light. They do well in well fed reef tanks by capturing food from the water column and absorbing dissolved organic matter. Zooplankton can be fed once per week.

Maintenance

Montis do best in clean and constant water conditions. Bi-weekly water changes of at least 10% are important for keeping water condition stable. Keep an eye on nitrate levels which need to be low. Maintaining calcium and alkalinity levels are important.

Warnings

Montis color will help inidicate its health and can be used to gauge how happy it is in the aquarium. They are not an aggressive coral but should be placed with room around them from other corals including other Montis. They will tolerate a mixed reef tank better than Acros. Limpet snails can potentially eat Montis.

Signs of Problems

• - Color change

• - Tumor like growths (not harmful just ugly)

• - Tissue recession (cut away the affected areas)

Description

The Pavona coral is a hardy SPS that make excellent starter corals and are easy to care for.Pavonas respond well to fragging and regrow quickly.

Care Level: Easy to Moderate

Placement: Bottom

Lighting: Moderate to High

Flow: Strong

Conditions: 74°-83°, s.g. 1.023-1.025, pH 8.1-8.4, Cal 385-425, dKH 8-12, Mag 1350-1500, Sr 10

Conditions & Placement

Pavonas are tolerant of most adequate aquarium conditions and are fairly disease resistant.

Feeding

Pavonas have a unique ability to turn inorganic substances into nutritional organic substances to use as food. Under ideal conditions they can do well without feeding. If placed under moderate lighting then microplankton can be fend in the evening.

Maintenance

Pavonas are more tolerant of conditions then other SPS but do best in clean water conditions. Bi-weekly water changes of at least 10% are important for keeping water condition stable. Nitrate levels should be kept low. Maintaining calcium and alkalinity levels are important.

Warnings

Pavona corals should not come into contact with other corals. They are highly aggressive and can extend sweepers stinging other corals.

Signs of Problems

• - Ensuring good flow to prevent cyanobacteria or algae growing on them

Common Names

Chalice Coral, Chinese Lettuce Coral, Cup Coral, Elephant Nose Coral Flat Lettuce Coral, Peacock Coral, Plate Coral, Scroll Coral

Description

Corals of the family Pectiniidae are among some of the easiest and color of the SPS corals to keep. It is an encrusting coral, growing in a plate form, with a unique appearance that makes it very popular. In the wild they inhabit a wide range of depths and water flow conditions making them easily adaptable to different environments.

Care Level: Easy

Placement: All

Lighting: Moderate to High

Flow: Low to Moderate

Conditions: 74°-82°, s.g. 1.023-1.025, pH 8.1-8.4, Cal 380-430, dKH 8-11, Mag 1200-1350, Sr8-10

Conditions & Placement

Pectiniidae are generally fairly easy to care for but good water quality is very important for growth and health. While tolerant of lower levels of light they can adapt to stronger lighting.

Feeding

Pectiniidaedo best in well fed reef tanks but only feeds at night. Corals of this family get most of its nutrition from zooxanthellae that live in it but can also be fed microplankton, cyclopeeze, brine shrimp and mysis.

Maintenance

A mature tank is recommended and Pectiniidaedo best in clean water conditions. Bi-weekly water changes of at least 10% are important for keeping water condition stable. Nitrate levels should be kept low. Maintaining calcium and alkalinity levels are important.They are relatively slow growers.

Warnings

Pectiniidaeare aggressive and care should be taken when placing near other corals. They have sweeper tentacles that may come out at night. Make sure there is moderate flow to keep debris off your coral.

Signs of Problems

• - Brown jelly infections are common

Common Names

Lace Coral, Raspberry Coral

Description

ThePocillopora has a wide range of habitat and a variety of growth formations even in the same habitat. Pocillopora can be generally described as having tight clusters of branches with fuzzy polyps.

Care Level: Moderate

Placement: Top

Lighting: Moderate to High

Flow: High

Conditions: 73°-79°, s.g. 1.023-1.025, pH 8.1-8.4, Cal 400-450, dKH 8-10, Mag 1350-1500, Sr 10

Conditions & Placement

Pocillopora are more forgiving of “dirty” water conditions than other SPS.Pocillopora growth will conform to the water flow conditions in the aquarium it will form thicker tighter branches in turbulent flow and thinner more spaced branches in low flow.Pocillopora prefer bright lilght conditions but will adapt to moderate lighting.

Feeding

Pocilloporagets most of its nutrition for zooxanthellae and dissolved organic matter but can also be fed zooplankton once a week.

Maintenance

A mature tank is recommended. Bi-weekly water changes of at least 10% are important for keeping water condition stable. Nitrate levels should be kept low. Maintaining consistent water parameters are important. Some fish for organic matter production is also important.

Warnings

Pocillopora coral can be sensitive to temperature changes. They are also susceptible to stress from shipping or moving. Pocillopora are agresive and have sweeper tentacles that will sting nearby corals.

Signs of Problems

• - Signs of lack of food include no new growth, polyps extending and tissue recession

Common Names

Ball Coral, Daisy Coral, Flowerpot Coral, Goni, Goniopora, Sunflower Coral, Yoo Stone Coral

Description

Poritidae look much like a cluster of flower with long stalks topper with a fringe of polyps.  Poritidae extend their polyps during the day and have an intricate nervous system that will send impulses to the rest of the coral telling it to close up if disturbed. Flowerpot species are rather hardy while Goniopora species are a bit more challenging.

Care Level: Moderate to Difficult

Placement: Bottom

Lighting: Moderate to Strong

Flow: Low to Medium

Conditions: 72°-80°, s.g. 1.023-1.025, Phosphates 0, Cal 400-450, dKH 8-11, Mag 1200-1350, Sr 8-10

Conditions & Placement

Poritidae prefer moderate to high light and require moderate flow.  It Is suggested that the not be placed in bare bottom aquariums as having a sandy substrate has shown to be beneficial to their survival.

Feeding

Poritidae are primarily photosynthetic but will greatly benefit from liquid supplements such as Marine Snow, Phytoplankton and Zooplankton.  You can also stir up detritus from the substrate to feed.  Iron and Manganese help keep the tentacles healthy.

Maintenance

Monthly water changes of 20% or bi-weekly water changes of at least 10% are suggested. Poritidae also seem to to do better in tanks with refugiums containing large amounts of macro algae or turf scrubbers.  It is not suggested to over skim in aquariums housing Poritidae as it can strip the water of beneficial food sources.

Warnings

It is not wise to have more than one species of Goniopora in the same tank as it may release chemicals that can be toxic to other species of Goniopora.

Common Names

Green Star Polyps, Mat Polyps, Octocoral andOrgan Pipe Coral

Description

Strikingly beautiful and very robust Tubiporidae are great specimens to add to the reef aquarium.  Since they do not have sweeper tentacles and are peaceful Tubiporidae will not bother nearby corals.

Care Level: Easy to Moderate

Placement: Middle to Top

Lighting: Moderate to Strong

Flow: Medium to High

Conditions:72°-81°, s.g. 1.023-1.025, Phosphates 0, Cal 400-450, dKH 8-11, Mag 1200-1350, Sr 8-10

Conditions & Placement

Tubiporidaeprefer nutrient rich environments so care should be taken not to over skim.  Flow should be moderate to turbulent and wavemakers are the preferred method of movement so flow is not one directional.  While Tubiporidae will do fine under bright lighting conditions they do best under moderate lighting conditions.

Feeding

Tubiporidae  will use light and zooxanthellae as their main food source.  Be sure to supplement Tubiporidae with fine particulate foods such as Marine Snow, artemianauplii and rotifers.

Maintenance

Stable tank conditions are needed to keep Tubiporidae.  Water changes of 20% a month or bi-weekly water changes of at least 10% are suggested. Do not over skim with Tubiporidae corals as they prefer nutrient rich environments.

Warnings

Tubiporidae are susceptible to algae growing over them which will not allow for polyp extension.

Signs of Problems

Common Names

Open Brain Coral, Pacific Rose Coral

Origin

Australia, Philippines

Description

Trachyphylliidae are solitary corals that are both attractive and unique.  Interestingly enough they begin life attached to something solid and as they grow detach and become free living.  Trachyphylliidae are relatively easy to care for.

Care Level: Easy

Placement: Bottom

Lighting: Low to Moderate

Flow: Low to Moderate

Conditions: 74°-83°, s.g. 1.023-1.025, Phosphates 0, Cal 400-430, dKH 8-11, Mag 1200-1350, Sr 8-10

Conditions & Placement

Trachyphylliidae should be placed lower in the aquarium in moderate light and gentle flow.  Care should be taken to place them where sand or debris will not collect on their surface.

Feeding

While photosynthesis is a primary source of nutrition Trachyphylliidae require daily feeding and will start to recede if not offered enough food.  Their feeder tentacles come out to night but will extend during the day when food is present.    Foods such as mysis, enriched brine shrimp, rotifers and cyclopeeze are all good food options for Trachyphylliidae.

Maintenance

Monthly water changes of 20% or bi-weekly water changes of at least 10% are suggested.

Warnings

Trachyphylliidae are peaceful and don’t have sweeper tentacles but care should be taken that their neighbors don’t harm them as they can’t defend themselves.

Common Names

Pulse Coral, Waving Hand Coral

Description

Xeniidae are encrusting forming mats and having long polyps that grow upwards.  They tend to ‘wave’ in the flow and provide nice movement to the reef aquarium.  Unlike many other corals Xeniidae do no react to stimuli by retracting.  It is an easy coral to care for and less likely to crash.

Care Level: Easy to Difficult

Placement: All

Lighting: Low to Moderate

Flow: Moderate to Strong

Conditions: 74°-83°, s.g. 1.023-1.025, Phosphates 0, Cal 400-450, dKH 8-11, Mag 1200-1350, Sr 8-10

Conditions & Placement

Being a deeper water coral Xeniidae should be kept in low to moderate lighting.

Feeding

Xeniidaehave a symbiotic relationship with the algae zooxanthellae that lives in their tissue for photosynthesis.  They willabsorb dissolved organic matter in the water column and some will capture microscopic food particles.  Target feeding these corals is not needed.

Maintenance

Stable tank conditions are needed to keep XeniidaeWater changes of 20% a month or bi-weekly water changes of at least 10% are suggested. Trace elements can also be added through proper testing.  Keep pH stable at around 8.3.

Warnings

Exercise proper handling procedures when working with Xeniidae only touching them briefly or wearing gloves.  They may also produce mucous when stressed which if accumulated can trap bacteria and harm the coral.

Common Names

Too many to list

Origin

Australia, Philippines

Description

Zoanthidae are among the easiest, most colorful and varied corals to keep.  They are highly recommended for the beginner reefer and prized by the most advanced.  The number and variation in color morphs is amazing.  The highlight of the Zoanthidae are the polyps which interconnect with one another by forming a mat on the rock or substrate.

Care Level: Easy

Placement: All

Lighting: High

Flow: Moderate

Conditions: 72°-82°, s.g. 1.023-1.025, Phosphates 0, Cal 380-430, dKH 8-11, Mag 1250-1300, Sr 8-10

Conditions & Placement

Zoanthidae are very hardy but generally prefer stronger lighting conditions.  Insufficient lighting will be evident by the polyps ‘stretching’ towards the surface.  Moderate, but not strong, water flow is best.  While Zoanthidae get along well with one another they should be spaced a bit apart from other corals to avoid possible chemical warfare.

Feeding

Zoanthidae are photosynthetic but also feed on small amounts of suitable foods brought to them through the water currents.  Such foods include zooplankton, brine and mysis along with a wide variety of commercially available specialty coral food blends.

Maintenance

Monthly water changes of 20% or bi-weekly water changes of at least 10% are suggested.  Iodine is a beneficial supplement for the wellbeing of Zoanthidae.

Warnings

*** Zoanthidae contain powerful palytoxin that can cause irritation or illness if ingested or entering the bloodstream so care should be taken (including eye protection) when handling or fragging these corals!

Keep an eye out for algae which can overgrow Zoanthidae polyps causing them to not open up and or eventually wither away.