Anemones
Anemones have the same basic needs as other invertebrates in your tank. Salinity around 1.025, pH around 8.2, Temp around 78 degrees and they are sensitive to any ammonia in the water. Established, well cycled tanks are best for keeping anemones. Anemones are very sensitive to water parameters/quality - often more so than corals, and should not, as a general rule, be attempted in newly established tanks, as the chemistry 'swings' in non mature tanks can do them in.
It must be able to satisfy the following conditions for it to settle down - light, flow, and food. Make sure you have all three right within the tank, or the anemone may wander forever and stress out, leading to death. Reading up on your preferred anemone will give you an idea of where they would ideally like to live in your tank. A common trait for newly introduced anemones is to wander about trying to find the perfect spot.
Once in the tank and in the desired place (however it may move to somewhere it wants) leave the creature alone for the 1 week "resting period". This is very important in anemone health. Don't feed it, touch it - anything - just leave it!
Exceptions to this is if the anemone is in danger; then you should intervene to make is safe. Another is if it has lost its zooxanthellae you should start to feed as soon as it will take the food.
An important general rule here - disturb the anemone as little as possible from day one. Don't shock, don't move it, don't force into anything it doesn't want - LEAVE IT ALONE. An anemone that is constantly bothered will die!
Lighting
You may notice a color change (usually a darkening or increase in intensity of existing color) under bright lighting and this is a sign of zooxanthellae production. On the flip side, if lighting is not adequate, a loss of zooxanthellae will occur and the anemone will "bleach" or lose it's color. This is a bad thing, and if this happens you should look to rectify this immediately.
If an anemone wanders looking up-stretched or seeks the highest point in the tank - it may need extra lighting. On the other hand, the anemone may go into hiding, away from the light - this may be it's way to deal with the shock of bright light again, but they should come back out in a position they like. If, however your anemone has not re-appeared after a week or so, (which happens) suspect the worse and set about finding it. This behavior is often displayed in sick anemones. You may wish to turn it's rock, or delicately move the rock to another area of the tank.
Flow
Flow is very important in anemone health - without one they will wander round the tank forever. Current is used in the wild to enable the anemone to catch prey swept through it's tentacles. It also helps to rid the anemone of waste products and mucus, helping to repel bacteria. A moderate to brisk flow is generally appreciated, but it does vary between anemones. You will find that the anemone will choose where suits it best.
While Anemones like medium to high flow they do best in non-direct flow. Always be sure to cover any pump intakes or overflows to prevent an anemone from getting sucked in. For pumps like powerheads, sponge works well but be sure and clean it regularly. For overflows, you can use filter floss, or the fine mesh PVC gutter grills which can be found at home improvement stores.
Food
This is a very individual choice which should be made together with your anemone. Offer food once a week to start with - this will condition the anemone. After that you could continue to feed, or reduce to occasionally. Feed a varied diet, as you would your fish. It is very tricky to get this right so if you're not sure, feed little and often. Your anemone will tell you when it's full by not accepting the food.
With adequate lighting, anemones do not need to be fed as often as once a day or once a week even. You have to find a balance between feeding, pollution and anemone health. If an anemone is healthy it will grow. This can be a good indicator if it is receiving enough food. Some grow by utilizing tank lighting only. If you have an anemone that grows without food then reduce your feeding to only monthly, or bi-monthly - to ensure that it receives all elements that cannot be obtained from the light (like fats and proteins). If an anemone shrinks, then it is not receiving enough food (and or light).
Clams
Is your tank ready for a clam? It is hard to sum up what makes a tank “ready” for a clam, but there are a few rules of thumb:
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Firstly tank maturity must be addressed, the tank must be a minimum of 6 months old. This time gives the final stages of die-off in the rock time to cycle through, some time for beneficial life forms to colonize, as well as time for you to get a grip on the essentials of running your tank.
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Second is Coralline algae, Coralline algae is a great tool to use when looking at a tanks stability, it is a rather finicky algae that grows well in the proper conditions for calcifying animals, and does not take to major changes well. If you have a good amount of growing coralline algae in your tank, chances are that a clam will also do great.
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Third is testing, it is recommend that major prams (CA, ALK, Nitrate, Phosphate, PH, Salinity, and Mag) be tested once per week (or more), if you tank is ready for a clam you should get the same results from your tests every time you run them. It indicates stability of your tank, this is going to make your future clam’s life easier and it will thank you for it with good growth and great color.